Hyde, Joseph Lawrence (1927–2007)
Early Life
Joseph was born in Palisades in 1927, the middle child of Bobby Hyde and Lydia Lawrence Tonetti. His mother Lydia was the daughter of the sculptor Mary Lawrence Tonetti, the matriarch of Snedens Landing. His father, restless and unconventional, soon left the family and returned to California to marry his childhood sweetheart. The three Hyde children — Angy, Joe, and François — were largely raised in Snedens under the care of “Granny” Tonetti and her faithful butler James.
Culinary Apprenticeship
After graduating from Trinity College in Hartford in 1950, Joe briefly considered a conventional career in the hotel business. Instead, a stint in the kitchens of the Hotel Raleigh in Washington, D.C. awakened his true vocation: cooking. Drafted into the Army during the Korean War, he served as a company cook, armed with little more than a Betty Crocker cookbook and ingenuity. He recalled inventing hearty dishes like his famous macaroni-and-hamburger casserole, dubbed “Holy Mattress” by grateful soldiers.
Returning to civilian life, Joe apprenticed in France through a UNESCO program. At Chez Nandron in Lyon, he endured the humiliation of being an older American novice in a kitchen of teenage apprentices. His size, accent, and clumsy French made him the “grossest thing that had ever happened to French cooking,” as he later joked. But perseverance paid off: he developed a taste for authentic French cuisine and moved on to the renowned Pyramide in Vienne, at that time one of the best restaurants in the world.
Joe’s enthusiasm for both food and life was boundless. A lucky $1,000 win in the French off-track betting system was spent, by local custom, on a marathon feast with nearly two dozen friends. “It was a fantastic, endless meal,” he remembered — pheasants, towering spun-sugar desserts, and champagne served with dust still on the bottles.
Chef and Teacher
After two years in France, Joe returned to the U.S., bringing continental flair to American kitchens. He worked as chef at the Jupiter Island Golf Club in Florida, where one of his triumphs was chicken poached inside a pig’s bladder — a specialty he continued to make despite the logistical hurdles of acquiring pig bladders in America. His later stints included restaurants in Santa Monica and catering operations in New York and California.
In the 1960s, Joe brought his skills back to Snedens Landing, running a cooking school in the old family mansion known as The Old Library. Classes were held in the vast colonial kitchen with its open hearth, where Joe taught a blend of serious culinary technique and performance. The New York Times praised his school as being of “too much merit” to ignore, even outside the city’s limits. Students remembered his classes as unforgettable — part instruction, part theater.
Author and Caterer
In 1971, Joe published Love, Time, and Butter, a cookbook that combined recipes with his philosophy of food as art and joy. By then, he had shifted from teaching to catering full-time, running elaborate events out of a palatial studio built by his uncle Eric Gugler, architect of the West Wing’s executive offices. There, surrounded by heroic busts and frescoes, Joe orchestrated meals with flair. He never traveled without shallots in his truck’s glove compartment — and a stash of kosher salt, which he loved “for the feel of it.”
Later Years and Legacy
In later years, Joe lived in Snedens, often in the stone house built by his sister Angy, and continued to cater and teach informally. At the senior living facility Dowling Gardens, he became a legend, transforming quiet bingo and poker nights into raucous affairs, to the dismay and delight of the Dominican sisters who scolded him as “young man.”
His daughter Anne remembered: “With his last breath so went a magical era in Snedens that none of us who lived any part of it, will ever forget.”
Joe Hyde embodied the Hyde–Tonetti spirit: eccentric, exuberant, and devoted to the arts — in his case, the art of food.